I recently visited Spruce & Bond with the hopes that they could help me with my eyebrows, or to be more accurate, my lack thereof. I’ve never had well-defined brows, they’ve always been super light and barely there. I don’t want to brag, but they’re so pitiful I’ve never even had to tweeze them.

This never really bothered me until the last couple of years when thick dark brows started to become more en vogue. That’s when I started filling them in with Make Up For Ever’s  Aqua Brow Gel, a great waterproof product that lasts all day and looks very natural, but I would have still preferred having to do minimal to no work for perfectly shaped and tinted brows.

Enter eyebrow expert Matt Shakik and the Spruce & Bond Brow Lab.

At Spruce & Bond they offer tinting, shaping, and a combination of the two which they call their Blueprint service. I had initially gone in with the intention of getting a shaping, but after seeing what my almost non-existent brows brought to the table, Matt kindly offered to tint them too. There was no way he was letting me walk out of there with eyebrows that were anything less than fleek.

Matt Shakik is a miracle worker. I came in with the saddest set of brows and left with a newly framed face. It sounds like I’m gushing because I am, but I was genuinely impressed with the results. I didn’t think it would be possible for my brows to look so good without the help of a time-consuming daily ritual.

I’m not exaggerating when I say, that for me, this was a life changing beauty treatment. And I’m not simply saying that, just ask my friends, who all received overly enthusiastic selfies of my new look along with the same proclamation.

Needless to say, it’s brow tints and shaping at Spruce & Bond for me from here on out.

Check out the Q&A I had with Matt below where you’ll find expert advice to perfecting your brows.

What should a great set of eyebrows do for someone’s face?

A great set of brows should be one that frames the face and accentuates their features like the eyes, nose and cheekbones. Your feature should be YOUR FACE and your brows should frame it nicely so that others can appreciate your natural beauty. Despite the current trends in brow world, I think it is important to keep in mind that I tailor every brow structure to each individual to make sure they suit their face.

What mistakes do you commonly see people make when it comes to their brows?

Well, I like to call them swimmers. Where there is a bulk at the head of a brow and then a thin body and tail to follow. Brows should always start at a thickness and run parallel and consistent ending in a point at the end of the tail. No one wants brows that look like they came out of a male’s private parts.

We couldn’t agree more! If someone has plucked their brows to the point that they aren’t growing back in certain spots what can they do?

Over the years we create trauma behind the growth cycle. We keep tweezing the same hairs and so the body registers that it doesn’t need certain growth in some of those follicles. What we need to do is remind the body that we do need growth and so we have to recreate the connection we’ve lost between the growth cycle and the follicles. Adding certain nutrients to your daily brow routine will help produce a quicker response.

What product would you recommend for people wishing to achieve this?

Joey Healy’s Brow Renovation Serum is a fantastic solution. The Serum is formulated and packed full of pentapeptides and other nutrients. Pentapeptides are a blend of aminos and proteins and applying them to your brows daily will help supply much needed nutrients and essential nourishment, allowing our bodies to register and signal a return in growth, whilst also supplying a healthy, full and nourished growth to the follicles that are active.

How do you decide what tint or shape would look best on clients?

Most of the time clients have weak visibility in parts of their brows. For the most part, this lies amongst the heads and top lining of the arches and tails. This is because most of our finer hairs lie amongst these parts but also as the hairs tend to grow in one direction we see more skin behind the hair through the gaps. at

Tinting these particular hairs to suit and match your natural colour will allow us to see more hair than skin hence giving us a fuller look and strengthening the overall look in your structure. Judging what looks best on my clients is a case to case study. Each client has a different facial structure so to ensure that each client has “The Perfect Brow” means that I have to consider how to compliment their features and frame their face. No one wants their brows to overpower and dominate their face, they should be subtle enough yet striking.

What should people know when filling in their brows with a pencil, powder or gel?

When using a color to fill your brows in, you really want to consider what look you are going for and why you are using it. Bald spots in our brows usually require a substitute for the hairs so I find a pencil is normally a better fit to create a consistency and fill in the brow structure. A weakness in the growth usually only needs a little help accentuating certain areas to give them a fuller look. Either way, we must not forget that a natural looking brow is one where the color doesn’t dominate. We should always ensure that whatever we use when we do fill our brows in, that we still end up seeing more hair than color and that the color, for the most part, acts like a shadow behind the hairs.

How long does a brow tint last and why?

A tint should only last about 3-4 weeks. This is because we all have a growth cycle of around 28 days in which new growth sparks and old growth falls. What that means is that as the hairs fall the tint falls with it so the tint doesn’t necessarily fade but it falls off as the hairs expire.

What are your thoughts on people using men’s hair dye to tint their brows at home?

I think when it comes to areas that are so sensitive and delicate you should never experiment with anything that isn’t formulated specifically for those areas. Most chemical treatments can be very invasive and unless you know how the exact composition will affect the coloring process on certain hair growth, you should leave the coloring to those that know what to do with it.

Wax or tweeze?

Definitely tweeze! Gone are the days when waxing was the thing to do when it came to brows. Quite frankly, I never thought waxing brows was the most appropriate method to structure them. What many people don’t realise is that a great brow specialist will never only wax your brows to create a structure. You can only get precision out of a structure by removing single certain hairs. We have hundreds of hairs amongst each brow which are very tightly knit so the only way to create a structure thats precise and accurate is sometimes by taking out one or two extra isolated hairs. There is a fine line between applying the right amount of wax to an area. If it spreads beyond that you become susceptible to removing too much.

Over time the constant pulling that accompanies wax will stretch out the skin. This creates looser skin composition which may result in sagging and drooping of the eyes. And of course let’s not forget that nobody wants to end up with a rash or a burn from hot and irritating wax. The areas around our eyes are sensitive and delicate so give them the care and attention they need.

How often should people be tweezing?

The norm is around every four weeks, but everybody is different. As the growth cycle is usually 28 days, people should see a return in growth within four weeks, although some have a more detained growth than others. If you want to keep your brows on point, when you find they need tending to then by all means tend to them. Maintain a stunning structure by taking out hairs as they sprout, and when you find yourself asking “should I take out this extra hair also?” it means you are ready for a professional again.

Everyone in Hollywood seems to be going bleach blonde. What brow colors or tones are appropriate for bleach blondes, natural blondes, brunettes, and red heads?

Blondes are tricky but not hard. I think when someone has gone unnatural blonde, there’s normally a contrast in the regrowth in their hair and darker roots so they can get away with having a contrast in their eyebrows. On the other hand, a natural blonde will have a fairer blend in their growth and one that is so contrasting, so keeping their brows looking subtle and soft is most suitable. As for brunettes and redheads, it’s normally easier to match or suit a color to them as they are darker and a contrast doesn’t differ much. It comes down to making sure the brows are prominent, visible and suited so each case is determined accordingly.

Do you think men should take care of their brows as as much as women do? How Should they go about it?

Absolutely. For the most part, we groom to maintain a proper and presentable appearance, and tending to your brows should be another part of every man’s grooming. Men are born more bold and rugged looking, so its important that when you are grooming a man’s eyebrows you keep more of a natural look and composition to them. Men’s brows should never be over-tweezed or structured to be too precise. I think it is important to keep a level of inconsistency in the structure but one that still freshens the brightens the face. No man wants to look like a mannequin.

Brow shaping at Spruce & Bond goes for $50 a pop or $200 for five sessions, tinting costs $25 or $100 for five sessions, and the combination Blueprint service is $75 or $250 for five sessions.  To get more info or make an appointment head over to Spruce & Bond.

 

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